Since we have a RoamRig Stage 1 lithium system in our van with 420 Ah total capacity, a 10-hour overnight cooling session uses approximately 42% of our total capacity. The downsides to this configuration are exposure to the elements, accessibility for theft or tampering, and it takes a little longer to set up.īased on approximately 30 hours of usage, I've found that the ZERO BREEZE consumes an average of 17.5A.
Finally, I attached a short length of air duct hose to the exterior part, long enough to clear the window.įinally, I set the ZERO BREEZE on the shelf, lock it to the ladder with a strong combination lock, and plug the unit in to the 110-volt receptacle on the rear passenger side of the van.Īs before, the entire kit packs tightly into a 20-gallon Husky waterproof tote. I cut some foam insulation into a size that fits tightly in the bedroom window, then cut a hole for air duct fixtures, covered the foam with gray duct tape, and attached the quick connect fixtures and duct connector flange to it. (The shelf should be painted black, but I haven't gotten to it yet.) To accomplish this, I built a small shelf that attaches to our Vannon ladder. We put our heads by the window and let the cold air wash over us - it's very effective for staying cool, and will require a blanket for sleeping. In this configuration, the ZERO BREEZE is mounted outside, and blows a steady stream of 62-degree air through a port in the side window, cooling the space and the people near the air stream. The outdoor configuration is probably the superior implementation for thermodynamic efficiency and noise abatement. It has the fewest moving parts, and is the fastest & easiest to set up each time it's used. rain), and there's no concern about tampering or theft. However, on the positive side, it is not exposed to the elements (e.g.
The internal application is a bit noisier than outdoors, and its exhaust heat is not removed from the van in an especially efficient manner via the Maxxfan in the ceiling, resulting in a warmer cabin up front. I load it when we're headed for a hot spot, and leave it at home for the other 99.9% of the time. The entire kit packs tightly into a 20-gallon Husky waterproof tote. The drain port rests over the sink, power comes from the 110 plug below it.
Exhaust heat from the ZERO BREEZE is vented through the ceiling fan in the main cabin with an open window to exchange the air. The basic idea of the indoor implementation is that the ZERO BREEZE sits on the galley counter, drains into the sink, and blows cool air into the bedroom area which is separated from the rest of the van by a thermal blanket. TL DR version: the ZERO BREEZE Mark II definitely can cool the bedroom area to make the space more comfortable however, the most effective use of the ZERO BREEZE is as a spot cooler, having it blow a chilly breeze on you while you sleep - you'll need a blanket, because it's pretty darned cold. I'll explain the two configurations in the following sections, and then talk about the power consumption and thermodynamic performance at the end of this post. In order to accomplish this, we created two different implementations for cooling the bedroom and ourselves: the Indoors configuration and the Outdoors configuration. In our case, we use it to cool the bedroom area and to blow directly on us while we sleep.
#Zero breeze mark 2 electric air conditioner portable#
We bought a ZERO BREEZE Mark II, a small portable air conditioner that blows a steady stream of 62-degree air that can cool a very small space, like a tent, or serve as a spot cooler that blows cold air directly on you. (*If you really want to know why, read the asterisked note at the bottom.) However, about once per year we're forced to spend the night in extremely hot areas, so we decided to try a portable AC that we could use when we need it. We don't have a roof-top air conditioner, and we don't want one.
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